- 1). Cut 20 inches of copper wire, wipe it down with the soft cloth, and file both ends smooth. Make a perpendicular bend in the middle of the wire using the pliers. Add a bead to the longer end of the wire and fit it snugly against the angle.
- 2). Bend the wire on the other side of the bead in the same direction as the bent end so they are parallel to each other. Fit the two wire ends around the mandrell, about 3 inches below the tapered end, with the bead fitting snugly against the mandrell. While holding the mandrell and stone in one hand with the ends facing away from you, wrap each length of wire around the circumference of the mandrell towards you and past the bead.
- 3). Draw each wire around the bead in a complete circle while keeping it firmly pressed against the bead. The bead will now be surrounded by two circles of wire. Remove the ring from the mandrell, keeping your thumb pressed against the bead and surrounding wire ends.
- 4). Take each end and, following in the direction in which it is pointed, wrap it twice perpendicularly around the shank of the ring so that it fits snugly against the wrapped bead. The bead is now in a setting of wire with two vertical bands on either side of it.
- 5). Clip the excess wire and file each end. Using the long-nosed pliers, tuck them inside the band of the ring. Place the ring back on the mandrell and gently tap along the sides and back of the ring to harden the wire. Stretch the ring by moving it slightly down the length of the mandrell to make the ring size larger, if necessary.
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