USE THE LATHER. Whichever cleaner you use, remember that it is the lather you want, not the water. If the stuffing in upholstery becomes wet, inexpensive dyes, often used in such fillings, tend to bleed into the fabric. Apply the lather with a small stiff brush to an area about the size of your hand; when it is clean, rinse the place with a sponge squeezed out of clear warm water. Move to an adjoining area and continue until the piece has been entirely covered. An electric fan will hurry the drying process, but don't put the furniture in the sun because colors might fade. Do not replace the cushions or allow the furniture to be used until it is completely dry.
VERY SOILED UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE is not an easy proposition and a professional can handle it best Many firms that specialize in cleaning rugs will clean your chairs and sofa also.
SPONGE PLASTIC UPHOLSTERY with warm suds. Lather thoroughly using a sponge, and rinse quickly. Don't let water seep through woven plastic materials.
SLIP COVERS of washable, colorfast, shrink proof materials can be laundered in your washer and are not difficult to do. First shake or brush the dust from them, being especially attentive to seams and bindings. Mend any ripped places, then remove, or pretreat, spots and badly soiled areas. Wash the covers (zippers closed) with warm water and white soap flakes (plus a softener), or with a mild detergent. Two short washes of four or five minutes each are better than one if the covers are very soiled. Run the machine for four or five minutes, extract the water, then wash them a second time in fresh suds. After rinsing, hang them inside out to dry indoors or in the shade. When they have reached the damp stage, iron the ruffles or pleated flounces and replace the covers on the chairs and cushions to finish drying, but do not put the cushions on the furniture until the drying is complete. Slipcovers fit better and undergo less strain from handling if you do not iron them all over.
WROUGHT IRON AND MARBLE-TOPPED furnishings have come into vogue again during the last few years. Such furniture usually requires little attention other than dusting, but it might be a good idea to discuss the special care that is required occasionally.
WROUGHT IRON is less subject to rust than cast iron but it is sometimes polished with liquid wax for extra protection. If a spot of rust does appear remove it with steel wool dipped in kerosene or with plain steel wool, and then wax the area. If you are renovating an old piece of wrought iron, considerable soaking with kerosene, followed by rubbing with steel wool, may be necessary to remove bad rust. Wrought iron can be painted, but use the paint made especially for it and follows the directions on the container.
Wrought iron furniture is easy to clean, but with additional guidance of the proper care, your furniture will get extra protection from the rust. If you prefer the lather to clean the upholstered furniture, remove the bleed of the dye with a small stiff brush and clean with the squeezed sponge. Wash the slipcovers with the zippers closed with warm water and white soap flakes or mild detergent. Polish the wrought iron furniture with liquid wax for extra protection against the rust. Sometimes there is rust spot appear, remove it with kerosene and wax the area.