On the Milan fairgrounds, where most of the fashion shows are presented, Mario Valentino had the best collection of the day. It is not a tightly kept secret that Christian Louboutin is the designing hand behind these miraculously worked leathers. The leathers are stripped, printed on reeds that appear woven, and for good measure some are shot with gol d threads to give the metallic glow that is obligatory for evening c lothes, even when they're rugged.
An Easy Alliance
If they keep this up, the alliance between Mario Valentino, the veteran designer, and Giorgio Armani, the expert tailor, will give their leathers the supremacy and fashion that marks Fendi furs and Missoni knitted clothes.
The Erreuno collection may offer customers the touch at more modest prices, meaning price tags in three figures instead of four. Armani's hand in designing the Erreuno collection is also a not too closely guarded secret.
The collection consists at the moment of nonconfining jackets, shorts that are wide enough to be called culottes and to be mistaken for skirts, long pants that stop somewhere below the calf and above the ankles, and flippy skirts, usually stopping above the knees. There's a sash in the middle to keep the looseness under control, usually at hip level.
In his own collection uses these elements in lightweight fabrics including gabardine for day and chiffon and organza for evening. There are lots of patterns adapted from Amish quilts, and vibrant colors, such as red borders on green pants paired with a red jacket. Shirring around the shoulders and double sleeves give breadth across the top without the use of pads. For evening there is the glow of sequins.
christian louboutin shoes uses some leathers in his own collection, treating them as if they were fabrics, but they are not nearly as elaborate as the Valentino styles in which tiny flowers are embroidered or printed, and stripes in various tones of pink or blue and suede tops accompany smooth leather pants.
On other runways, Claudio La Viola showed layered skirts, all below calf length, and shorts with apron effects, and Andre Laug presented clothes with a couture feeling. His silk dresses and good-looking suits were knee length for day. Evening sweaters, shot with glitter, were belted over long pleated chiffon skirts.
Aldo Ferrante showed calf-length skirts made up of panels split to show shorts underneath. These were paired with bloused tops and are a provocative thought for warm-weather dressing.
Many Exhibition Booths
Not all the fashion action is on the runway. More than 200 fashion houses set up exhibition booths at the fair, attracting some 5,000 buyers over the weekend. Irene Galitzine, the Rome couturier whose palazzo pajamas made fashion history in the 1960's, was one of those surprised by the traffic. She showed two small collections: sportswear with nautical themes and silk or linen dresses. One of the popular styles: a one-shouldered tunic over cuffed white silk calflength pants.